![]() 07/27/2020 at 14:28 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
My bike is back on the road ... mostly.
The rear wheel is an upgrade as it has a cassette instead of a freewheel and it fit right on. I’m just having trouble with it skipping on the smallest cog when I’m really pedalling hard. Not sure how to solve it. My wife’s bike is doing the same.
I bought this Trek 7000 which I have taken the rear wheel and pedals from. The yellow pedals wouldn’t have been my choice but aesthetics aside they are nicer than the plastic ones I had before. The bar ends and seat post
clamp appear to be purple with black paint on top. If I could figure out how to get the black off I would rock the purple.
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![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:15 |
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I would suggest moving the shifter and derailure from the trek to the M arin. A couple of basic things to check:
1. the cassette and shifter are the same number of speeds, likely 8 from what I can see.
2. Check cable tension in the rear derailure sitting on the smallest cog in back the cable should be snug, not tight and not loose but snug.
3. check the limit screws so that the derailure is being allowed to move to the cog completely where it is skipping. There are two limit screws, one is high and one is low. Be very careful with these if they are adjusted too much out, then the chain will fall between the wheel and cogs or the frame and cogs on the low side.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:22 |
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They are the same number of speeds (7) and very similar S himano setups. I’ll give a shot swapping the derailleur over then I’ll try the shifter .
I thought I had it adjusted nicely it clicks between the gears all smoothly and all the other gears don’t pop no matter how hard I stand on the pedals
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:27 |
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Likely the limit screw, less likely a worn out cog or worn out chain. It shouldn’t skip. B etter than what happened to my friend Troy... That’s a carbon fiber crank!
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:29 |
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Yikes that looks expensive.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:31 |
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In addition to Highlander’s suggestions, is the chain or the cassette excessively worn? Since they came from different bikes, they may have worn differently.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:35 |
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That’s probably a $500 broken crank... I’ve seen people crash in a race and thought, well there goes $1,500!
![]() 07/27/2020 at 15:51 |
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I shouldn't laugh, but...
![]() 07/27/2020 at 16:04 |
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It’s okay to laugh. It’s also a but sad. That’s a specialized S-works bike with a carbon crank...
![]() 07/27/2020 at 16:23 |
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The high high cost of being a weight weenie. A few grams heavier, a few hundred less, it would still be a crank.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 16:33 |
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They all have the ability to break if given the right circumstances.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 16:46 |
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True.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 18:05 |
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Alternate beater bike failure modes are bent RD hanger (not a problem) and bent RD cage (throw it away).
If you have a ceiling joist. Hang bike from seat and bars with chain on middle front ring and second smallest gear (second largest cog). While slowly turning crank pull on RD gently so it shifts bike onto largest cog. When you let go it should snap downwards instantly. Adjust “L” screw until it doesn’t make noise when on largest cog AND shifts downward immediately into gear without making noise there either. Basically turn the screw 1/4 or 1/8 at a time. Way harder to explain than to do.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 18:44 |
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A s yes the bent rear derailure hanger, I think my PTSD made me forget about it. I have a rear derailure hanger alignment tool that is worth it’s weight in gold or in new derailure hangers depending on how messed up they are.
![]() 07/28/2020 at 01:12 |
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Yikes, pull on RD Cable not RD.
![]() 07/28/2020 at 07:06 |
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How would I even determine this?